|
Scott
|
 |
« on: September 25, 2005, 06:45:33 AM » |
|
Hey, everyone -
The Isolette's working great and looks great now, but there's a little of the leatherette on the bottom that's peeling at the edges. I want to tack it back down before it gets any worse, but I want to do it right so, if it needs to be removed later, I'll be able to.
Any suggestions on what to use?
Thanks,
Scott
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Mike Kovacs
|
|
« Reply #1 on: September 25, 2005, 06:46:52 AM » |
|
Elmers white glue - water soluble, easy to remove
Pliobond rubber cement - stronger hold but also removable
Do not recommend contact cement - too permanent
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Scott
|
|
« Reply #2 on: September 25, 2005, 08:17:30 AM » |
|
Done. Elmer's got it - had some on hand, and simple. Just have a little paint to touch up with some Testor's, and it'll be sterling.
Thanks, Mike.
Scott
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
paul ron
|
|
« Reply #3 on: September 28, 2005, 04:45:06 PM » |
|
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE... be nice to the next guy repairing your camera and use double sided tape. Glue makes it impossable to peel that leatherete off next time the camera has to be worked on.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Don Day
|
|
« Reply #4 on: September 28, 2005, 06:18:34 PM » |
|
Having worked on archival conservation in an earlier lifetime, I learned from working with old materials what effect different adhesives can have over time. Tape adhesives are nearly impossible to remove, and most tend to soak into materials, causing discoloration in the short term and certain deterioration of material later on. Rubber cements cause fast aging of cellulose in papers and fiber cloths--that's why they are not recommended for mounting photographs that you want to last. I agree that contact cements are the devil to remove. CA instant glues are not appropriate for binding cloth to metals, and they penetrate and harden porous materials. What that leaves you with are water-based glues such as Elmers, wood glue, or hide glue. Hide glue has the appeal of being most like what might have been used originally, but tacky white glues are convenient to work with. Either way, you (or your camera's re-restorers after you) can always revert the work to a near-original starting over state.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Ronald Bishop
|
|
« Reply #5 on: October 02, 2005, 07:17:31 PM » |
|
What can you use with slit leather? I was going to use Gorilla Glue but after reading the label I'm having second thoughts. I'm doing a Frank-six front is all.
Gorilla instructions-- Damp it-Glue it - Clamp it. Scary huh?
Ron Bishop
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Ronald Bishop
|
|
« Reply #6 on: October 02, 2005, 07:35:01 PM » |
|
What can you use with split leather? I was going to use Gorilla Glue but after reading the label I'm having second thoughts. I'm doing a Frank-six front is all.
Gorilla instructions-- Damp it-Glue it - Clamp it. Scary huh?
Ron Bishop
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Ronald Bishop
|
|
« Reply #7 on: October 02, 2005, 07:36:03 PM » |
|
Now howed I do that?  Sorry Ron B |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Scott
|
|
« Reply #8 on: October 03, 2005, 07:15:55 AM » |
|
Hi, Ron -
Having used Gorilla glue for years in woodworking, I think I'd use just about anything else before resorting to a polyurethane glue. It foams as it cures, can make an insane mess, cures extremely hard, and is darn near irreversible. Think the other suggestions would be more appropriate.
Scott
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
titrisol
|
|
« Reply #9 on: October 03, 2005, 07:47:31 AM » |
|
Gorilla glue? yikes! Super glue is easier to remove! What can you use with slit leather? I was going to use Gorilla Glue but after reading the label I'm having second thoughts. I'm doing a Frank-six front is all.
Gorilla instructions-- Damp it-Glue it - Clamp it. Scary huh?
Ron Bishop |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
If you can't fix it with a hammer... you got an electrical problemMy Flickr
|
|
|
|
Ronald Bishop
|
|
« Reply #10 on: October 03, 2005, 09:56:34 AM » |
|
Oh Well, I can't get the cap off anyway. :?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
