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Author Topic: Part needed - Pentax MX  (Read 769 times)
sandeha
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« on: October 10, 2005, 12:08:51 PM »

I know it's not yet classic, but more repairers might see it here.

I need a lever wind cover/retainer cap (left-handed thread) for a Pentax MX  - part number C305, I think.  

Got one in your parts box?  Got a dead/crushed MX in the basement?  Know any parts dealers for Pentax? (I tried Harrow Technical in the UK - no stock).  

Alternatively, any left-hand screw stock that's maybe 3/32" or 2.2mm wide - I might be able to cobble something together.
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melek
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« Reply #1 on: October 10, 2005, 12:14:15 PM »

Hey Sandeha,

Could you post a little digital pic of where the part would go? I'm having trouble visualizing the missing screw.
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sandeha
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« Reply #2 on: October 10, 2005, 12:34:13 PM »

This is how it should look ...



This is how things stand ...



Help would be much appreciated.  It's bizarre that this must be the weakest link - can't do nuffin wivout it.   Sad
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Alan Gage
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« Reply #3 on: October 10, 2005, 01:07:51 PM »

I wonder if it's the same for the ME super/ME or even other models? If so I'd think you could get a non-functioning ME pretty cheap off EBAY if it doesn't pan out here.

Alan
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sandeha
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« Reply #4 on: October 10, 2005, 01:28:19 PM »

I used to have an ME Super, Alan, but the cap structure is different.  I actually lost that cap but the winder had its own locking bolt.  Funny thing is that I'm asking here because several weeks ago I bought a junk MX off the Bay which hasn't arrived ... lost in the trans-European post maybe.  The dealer says if it doesn't come in another week he'll refund me.  OK, well enough, but I'm still stuck with my piccolo problemino ... so this request is just fingers crossing on chance.
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melek
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« Reply #5 on: October 10, 2005, 01:36:04 PM »

Some thoughts on repairs:

-- You might try soldering the two parts. However, because they're aluminum, it might not bond. Try using an acid-core solder rather than rosin core.

-- Gorilla Glue could be another option. Just one drop. The stuff foams and expands, so you would need to push down on it as the glue sets. Once set, that stuff is luck granite.

The worst that happens is that neither idea works, in which case you're pretty much where you started.
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sandeha
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« Reply #6 on: October 10, 2005, 01:48:55 PM »

True - I'd also been thinking of drilling through both with my finest bit and then inserting a fine brass post before gluing or soldering ... I could, but that is truly last resort.

Just checked again - it's brass.  So last resort will be to find a jeweller who can silver-solder it back together.
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titrisol
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« Reply #7 on: October 10, 2005, 02:00:54 PM »

You may find a precision mechanic to do a new piece for you, but it'll be cehaper to buy a used /non working/ for parts camera
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NicolasD
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« Reply #8 on: October 10, 2005, 03:32:04 PM »

Sandeha, get your caliper asap and check the following measurements :

- diameter of the cap head
- threads size
- threaded shaft length

Because it's exactly like a Rollei 35 cocking lever chrome cap... look :



I've a spare one available. Keep in touch...  Cool

Note : my caliper has wear so that its measurements happen to be off for +/- 0.1mm - keep this in mind...  :?
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sandeha
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« Reply #9 on: October 11, 2005, 12:34:25 AM »

Nicolas - amazing!
 
width of cap = 15.0mm
total height of cap/screw = 4.0mm
width of screw thread = 2mm

By eye this, as I don't have (what I should have) a caliper for this scale of work.  On the height I'm guessing since the metal is sheared, but 4.0mm is the max.  The width and 'look' of the cap is perfect, but the width of the left-handed screw is ... close, but worth a try.  I can't be absolutely certain of the measurement.  Some ptfc plumbers' tape would pad it if it's a little loose.

Let's leave it a couple of days and if nothing turns up by the end of the week, I'll send a PM to your message box.  Many thanks.
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NicolasD
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« Reply #10 on: October 11, 2005, 01:54:43 AM »

3.6mm is the measurement of the threaded section only, it does not include the cap by itself (which is about 1.2mm).

 :roll: there is something I missed I'm afraid (it was late night when I read and posted my reply) : the threads of your original cap are said to be "left handed", I assume it means that you turn it CCW to lock the cap on top the film advance lever, right ?

Unfortunately that Rollei 35 cap is "right-handed" : to lock it on top the film advance lever I must turn it CW.

If so...  :cry:

Can you post an update though ? If I recall, my Nikon FE has a similar cap (covered with a leather patch) but it had to be turned CW to be locked up on top the film advance lever.

Addendum  : you wrote this about your MX that is still enroute to your mailbox : "funny thing is that I'm asking here because several weeks ago I bought a junk MX off the Bay which hasn't arrived ... lost in the trans-European post maybe"

Don't give up. In the last spring I bought a Zeiss Ikonta 35 from a German seller. It was sent with the Deutsche Post, which is generally highly reliable. More than two months later it hadn't come yet and so I was thinking it was my first "lost" ebay item. As I had paid 22 euros for it, no big deal. What a surprise was it, 3 months and a half after the shipping date, to find it in my mailbox, in its absolutely intact packaging. Really wonder where it was laying during that time ! On the Ligne Maginot maybe
 :wink:
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sandeha
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« Reply #11 on: October 11, 2005, 02:11:01 AM »

It is a left-hander, Nicolas.  

Strangely, I knew that from the beginning when I started my (successful) repair under the bayonet mount, but somehow I went back in again on only one cup of morning coffee and ...  :roll:

Any left-handed bolt of the right width could be cut to size and mounted straight through the cap, but first find a left-handed bolt!

Edit - could be.  This one (declared as not working but who knows) is coming from Austria, which may mean a few extra hurdles to cross.
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NicolasD
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« Reply #12 on: October 11, 2005, 02:27:49 AM »

You Brits with your left-handed driving habits  :roll:
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ImageMaker
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« Reply #13 on: October 11, 2005, 08:40:17 PM »

Sandeha, try a shop that sells supplies to model railroad builders.  They'll likely have both right- and left-handed screws in the 1 to 3 mm range, possibly in a couple different thread pitches (they would in English sizes, certainly, but metric may or may not), lenghts ranging up to about 8-10 times the diameter.  Take the camera body so you can tell for certain that it screws in; if you find what you want, anyone compentent with a small drilling machine can drill out the original knob to let you solder in the (head removed) replacement bolt.
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sandeha
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« Reply #14 on: October 12, 2005, 12:38:43 AM »

There used to be one here so I'll see if it's still in business and give it a try.  Thanks.
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