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1  Gearheads / Digital Dharma / Re: New Beginnings UPDATED 5-19-13, 5-21-13 on: May 21, 2013, 08:26:59 PM
Two more photos today.  The little ones are getting bigger, and really fill the nest now.  They have most of their feathers, though the heads are still mostly covered in wisps.  And still four of them.  They have to face two one way, and two the other to be comfortable.

I hope you can see the photos using the link from the previous post, as Flickr is going through some changes, and they keep making fixes on the fly.  It might not be straightened out for another week.

PF
2  Gearheads / the Classics / Re: Agfa Memar Question on: May 20, 2013, 07:57:40 PM
I started with the white lithium, but switched to a synthetic (Super Lube) that Micro-Tools sells, but I found in a local hardware store.  It has a stiffeness to it that fills the helicals better.  Not much of a break on the price, but then I didn't have to pay shipping, or get lured into buying several other items.

I'll be waiting on that Memar, Ron.

PF
3  Gearheads / Digital Dharma / Re: New Beginnings UPDATED 5-19-13 on: May 19, 2013, 08:28:53 PM
Added three more photos to the set

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7699588@N07/sets/72157633459680030/

PF
4  Gearheads / the Classics / Re: Agfa Memar Question on: May 19, 2013, 07:38:09 PM
If you don't feel like tackling it, Ron, I could fix it for you.

PF
5  Gearheads / the Classics / Re: Retina II from Texas on: May 19, 2013, 07:35:46 PM
Your pilot boat photo shows why I was glad to find my IIIC when I did.  But yeah, the ergonomics aren't the best in the world.  I cradle mine in the left hand, with the thumb on the focus knob, and grab on as best I can with the right hand.  For as beautiful a camera as it is, there just isn't much to hold on to.

PF
6  Gearheads / the Classics / Re: Agfa Memar Question on: May 17, 2013, 01:14:24 PM
Here you go, Mike.


62_2 Lens Name/Filter Ring Removal by br1078phot, on Flickr

It's best to have two of them.

PF
7  Gearheads / the Classics / Catawba with Yashica Minimatic C on: May 17, 2013, 01:10:55 PM
I didn’t have much to do on Mothers Day, so I took a ride out in the county to take some photos with the Yashica Minimatic C.  Catawba is a small town in the northern part of Roanoke County, VA, and on a nice sunny spring Sunday afternoon, was a good place to be.


Three Lions by br1078phot, on Flickr
Chows guarding the front lawn.




Catawba Quick Stop by br1078phot, on Flickr
The Quick Stop is the center of activity in this small town.




Catawba Sustainability Center by br1078phot, on Flickr
Read all about it here
http://www.catawbalandcare.org/going-on/csc-earthworks/




Can't Hold Back by br1078phot, on Flickr
A sea of grass inundates the fence line.



See the rest of the set at
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7699588@N07/sets/72157633519498064/

PF
8  Gearheads / the Classics / Re: Agfa Memar Question on: May 16, 2013, 06:57:59 PM
Rubber jawed jar cap openers are great for getting stuck filters off, and lens elements apart.  I buy mine down at the grocery store, hanging on a card in the aisle.

PF
9  Gearheads / the Classics / Re: Agfa Memar Question on: May 15, 2013, 07:42:32 PM
The Memar has a front-cell focusing Apotar, Ron, and yes, that dratted Bayer grease that turns to cement over the years.  You may have broke it loose, but I'm afraid that you also brought the second element with the first.  That's been my experience on these.  It will need to be taken apart to get the elements seperated, and reinstalled correctly.  It may also take quite a while to seperate the elements.  I soaked one set for over a month, and they still would not budge.

Put the lens in all the way until it's tight.  Take the focusing ring off the front (DO NOT remove the set screws, just loosen them enough to get the ring off), and then remove the front element.  If you see the shutter blades staring back at you, you've also removed the second element, which means having to unstick the two.  If you see the second element sitting in front of the shutter, then you are way ahead of the game.  But if both elements came out, then follow the below.  Either way, you still have to clean all the Bayer off the helical threads.

Sometimes, all it takes is some hair dryer heat to break the Bayer loose, but an alcohol soaking first also helps.  After you get them apart, then you have to clean the Bayer off of the elements, and the focusing helical.  Again, the alcohol works great for this, dabbed on with a cotton swab, and then run a fine pick through the threads to remove any chunks left behind.  Relube with a good synthetic grease such as Super Lube (r), which you can get down at the hardware store.  Put the second element back in the mount, and then set infinity focus with the first element by using the ground-glass technique.  Put the focusing ring back on, load some film, and you are ready to take photos.

PF
10  Dude, I'm Geekin' Out Over Here! / Film & Darkroom / Re: Redscale Experiment on Kodak ti2420 on: May 15, 2013, 10:00:46 AM
Thanks, all.  I think that this all got started when someone rolled some of his own one day with the master roll upside down in the winder, Paul.  Then, Lomo took it and ran with the idea that it would sell film.  The coloration is due to the red layer being struck first, without the filtering effects of the other color layers.  Exposed normally, the film looks like many other current 400 speed offerings.  If you've ever shot a camera with light leaking from the door hinge, you'll get red splotches from a normally winding camera, but white ones from a reverse winder (like my Minolta X-700).

I took these using a Canon AF35M P&S because it has an ISO setting of 25, which after seeing others work with this stuff, seemed to be the sweet spot.  Having to expose through the film base and halation layer requires the lower ISO.  Next one I'm going to try will be with an 80B filter.  I'll have to read up on why that is recommended, but it certainly will demand nothing but the brightest days for shooting.

I thought about redscaling some of that Fuji Velvia 50 I have, but that means an ISO of 6, which precludes any hand held exposures.  And the tripod better be weighted down with the way the wind blows around here.

PF
11  Gearheads / the Classics / Re: Kiev IV AM on: May 15, 2013, 09:38:53 AM
I've always heard the lenses for those are great.
PF
12  Dude, I'm Geekin' Out Over Here! / Film & Darkroom / Redscale Experiment on Kodak ti2420 on: May 14, 2013, 09:52:39 PM
Rentavet sent me some of the Hawkeye Surveilance film that he had rolled backwards so I could experiment with it a bit.  I almost wrecked a roll when I thought the camera (Canon AF35M) wasn't winding the film, and popped the back open to check.  Only lost about four frames, and some those I shot over.  It's a 400 speed film that I shot at 25 ISO, since light has to get through the halation layer first.

Here are some examples, with a link at the bottom to the complete set on Flickr.


Read Mountain Redscale by br1078phot, on Flickr




Close Enough by br1078phot, on Flickr




Long Trek To The Top by br1078phot, on Flickr




Finality by br1078phot, on Flickr




The Line by br1078phot, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7699588@N07/sets/72157633483175867/

What do you think?  By the way, shot normally, it looks pretty good too.

PF
13  Gearheads / Bigger Is Better / Re: Humdrum Wellington Suburbia, Part II on: May 13, 2013, 08:21:09 PM
Yeah, I could stand even more of that infliction.  The little '70s spire is a great find.

PF
14  Gearheads / Point-N-Shoot, Pinhole, Polaroid, and Plastic Emporium / Re: Pentax PC-3000 on: May 12, 2013, 07:29:12 PM
Not when it's $14 a roll for developing and scanning, Robert.  Plus the cost of the film get's it near to $18.

PF
15  General / The Eyes Have It | W/NW / Re: Hillyard Days on: May 12, 2013, 07:10:27 PM
That's a very good set you have over on Flickr, Ron.

PF
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