Todd, the other Argoflex models were made for 620 only, but could be easily converted by removing a pivoting film carrier from the supply side, and taking advantage of the unusual drive key layout (which would in fact fit a 120 spool) and a takeup chamber large enough for unmodified 120 spools.  I suspect yours was converted before you received it.

Either way, they're a very decent little TLR, a little better than a Lubitel and usually cheaper these days.  The thing that finally moved me to trade mine on was the dim focus screen; compared to my Kodak Reflex II (which is 620 only, but will at least accept a trimmed 120 spool on the supply side) it's at least two stops dimmer in the viewfinder, maybe three (and the slower lens only accounts for, at most, one stop difference).

The Swinger would make a nice conversion to 120, with the following proviso: you get a nice 6x9 cm frame, but you can *only* use Delta 3200 film in it.  Given a willingness to do that, however, it would actually make decent images (I had one around 1970 -- cost far too much to feed even in those days, but it was an okay camera).

Ummm.  I doubt that's actually f/256 (unless that's on a scale calibrated for the longest group in the convertible lens, and even then somewhat unlikely).  I suspect your aperture is marked in US aperture scale; they're the same at 16, but the US scale goes 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, 128, 256 for the same apertures that would be f/11, f/16, f/22, f/32, f/45, f/64 -- the latter being a much more reasonable range for an RR type lens.

I don't recall *ever* having a problem making a $25 minimum order at Freestyle...  

The images remind me a lot of ADOX CMS20, though this film is 2/3 to 1 stop faster.  I didn't catch whether it was to be processed in standard developers (i.e. D-76 stock or 1+1, HC-110 B, etc.) or in low-contrast developers like those Tech Pan and CMS20 require(d) (for which I use a coffee developer derivative enhanced with ascorbic acid, that I call Caffenol LC+C).

Edit: Okay, I see "special developer" in the original post.  Given the 1+15 dilution, that sounds like someone's version of H&W Control; if so, this could well be the same base stock as the ADOX CMS20 (which should give ISO 32-40 in that developer).

:thumbsup2:

Well, FWIW, I paid $150 for my Annie Speed (working focal plane shutter and working, albeit faint RF since repaired, spring back rather than Graflok, came without a lens but with a blank lens board), which isn't anything like as pretty as that Crown.  I wanted the focal plane shutter, though, and don't really need or want front tilt (which was the main upgrade from the Anniversary to the Pacemaker models), plus prefer the more versatile 24-speed shutter over the 6-speed in the Pacemaker Speeds.

Given the lens and shutter, that wouldn't have been a bad price, but I'd have wanted to at least verify the shutter was working correctly (a CLA is one thing; major repairs quite another) and thoroughly check the bellows for light leaks before spending that much...

Scott, do you have a shorter focal length lens?  At these distances, a 105 mm from a 6x9 cm folder would easily cover 5x7, and with 14 inches of draw you'd then have a film image big enough to fill the frame with just the tip of the pistil (have fun calculating the bellows correction for exposure, though).

FWIW, Polaroid's literature of the past claims bubbles are probably from pulling too fast.

I've been using microfiber cloth made for cleaning anti-reflection coated eyeglasses to remove fingerprints from negatives, with excellent results (the scanner can't find 'em even in broad areas of smooth tone -- even in images that require considerable contrast boost to produce a good file).  No chemicals, just gentle rubbing with the cloth directly on the film surface (both sides, as needed).

Wow, that's just up the road from here.  Too bad the only Argus I have is an auto-everything from the 1990s or so...

Ack!  Rangefinder day already?!  Must grab the Speed Graphic and go pull a couple Polaroids...  

Ron, I downloaded a manual for my Motormatic, and found there are a couple ways to shoot without the "motor" noise alerting your subject.  One is to let down the spring, and advance manually after each exposure, turning the knob only far enough for the advance to lock; this is "silent" mode.  The other is to hold the release after exposing, until you've cleared the area; the film won't advance until you let up the shutter release, which means you can delay the advance noise until it won't cause trouble.

Mine is quite nice to use; if it had a rangefinder, it might well get more use than my Canonets.  

Too bad that photo by the Jeep didn't have you climbing over the vehicle, Craig -- then you could call it "Crossing the Rubicon."  

Well, I stupidly traded off the 550 that came with my electron microscope camera (which I converted to pinhole) before realizing that Fuji still sold film to fit it (this was just weeks after Polaroid dropped the 550 series films).  So, now I have another one, and after I get some Fujiroid film and fabricate a new set of brass mounting brackets to put the back on my Speed Graphic, I'll be ready to shoot hand-held stuff on full 4x5 insty-prints.  

Honestly, I expect Fuji to keep their 4x5 pack film around a while; it's now the *only* bet for 4x5 instant prints, which means everyone who's been shooting Polaroid "packet" films will have to convert.  Sad about 55, but the FP-100B, FP-3000B, and FP-100C are all very good films...  

It'd cost more than I've got just to get it all shipped from Germany...  :eek: