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Scott
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« on: November 15, 2010, 02:55:40 PM » |
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I've come to the realization that, especially for portraits, I need to start using lights. Only shooting outside in the summer is too limiting; inside without lights is plain frustrating (photo evidence forthcoming after the negs dry...). Anyway, I'm using a Packard that I don't want to modify to trigger a flash, so I'm thinking always-on photo floods are the way to go. Found these on eBay - they look too good to be true. Are they? Whatcha think? I know nothing of wattage requirements, etc. for portraiture. Thinking I could make a rudimentary softbox for each light... Scott
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radiophoto
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« Reply #1 on: November 15, 2010, 05:06:23 PM » |
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Scott, when I started out with studio lighting, I went to Home Despot and got the type of clamp lights that have a shiny metal reflecting bowl. I ended up with four of them and even though they were rated for 60W bulbs, I used them with 200 and 300W bulbs since I had them on for only a few moments at a time, turning them off between shots. They always worked great for me with B&W film, and only cost a few dollars apiece. The high-wattage bulbs last a long time, too, since you in effect have them on for only a few minutes a year.
For diffusion of light, I crumpled up and flattened out a sheet of wax paper and tented it across the reflector with two clothespins (you don't want the paper in direct contact with the bulb). Increase/decrease your light intensity by moving lights closer/farther away.
The lights you have linked, by the way, look to be designed for a "tent" studio, i.e., photographing small items for sale on eBay. Probably not what you want.
I learned a lot about lighting from this method and didn't have to spend a lot of money in the process.
Also, I made a nice reflector with a hula hoop, white fabric and a staple gun.
Big spring clips (about a buck-and-a-half) come in handy for many things as well. Give these ideas a try first and I don't think you'll be disappointed. If in doubt, many of the black & white portraits at my website were shot in just this method.
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Pete (Corpus Christi, TX) Every professional should remain always in his heart an amateur. - Alfred Eisenstaedt (1898-1995) My Website
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br1078lum
PFMcFarland
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Posts: 2792
Waiting for the light
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« Reply #2 on: November 15, 2010, 07:07:43 PM » |
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I think being photo tent lights, there will not be much of a spread on the light beam from the looks of the reflectors. The bulbs are okay, especially since you do most of your portraiture in b&w, but larger reflectors would be better. Just not sure if they would be good for highlights. And if you do use them for color shots, better have your FL filters ready. For more formal settings, a three light set-up is best.
A main light with a medium spread, a highlight with a concentrated beam, and a background light with a broad spread. These can be made out of stuff from the hardware store or junk shop, but the light itself is more dependent on the temperature (in Kelvins) than the wattage when doing color. Reflectors can be made from foam core, diffusers from good quality sheets (again, the color of the light comes into play), but if you use regular photofloods, look out for heat build up on the equipment. You can even use dollar store mirrors to direct light where you want it.
PF
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Smile, it won't kill you
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Scott
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« Reply #3 on: November 16, 2010, 11:01:18 AM » |
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Thanks for the input guys. Like I said, I am clueless in this arena.
So, Pete, let me ask you this: What do I do for lights? I can pick up the cheap-o clamp-on fixtures (they even have them rated for 250 watts - the boy has his UV basking light in one - but they're expensive), and even clamp them on a mic stand or two. But where do I get the lights? Since it's B&W, do I just get regular floods from dePot? I'll have to give your site a more targeted look and see what the lighting can do...
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Scott
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« Reply #4 on: November 16, 2010, 11:27:27 AM » |
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Think I may've found what I needed: DIY Softboxes. Uses mountable worklights from dePot. And PVC scratch-built stands, but I may try to improvise something there, or find clampable worklights.
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radiophoto
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« Reply #5 on: November 16, 2010, 11:45:08 AM » |
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Home d'poe has 200 and 300 watt incandescent bulbs.
That DIY soft box is really nice.
I forgot to tell you that I also made two spots out of restaurant-sized cans that already had the white lining. I used a pocket knife to carve a circle out of the bottom of the can and lined the cut edge with black electrical tape. The light fixture fit inside the hole and was kept in place by the bulb. I painted the outsides of the cans flat black.
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Pete (Corpus Christi, TX) Every professional should remain always in his heart an amateur. - Alfred Eisenstaedt (1898-1995) My Website
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sandeha
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« Reply #6 on: November 16, 2010, 12:30:13 PM » |
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The pic may not be a huge help but adapting the Packard for flash is no biggie. I stripped out a hotshoe adapter, fitted it to some sort of metal spar and bolted that to the box that supports the Packard. The spar, actually it was from the front door of a dead folder camera, makes contact with the Packard body.  The flash connector had a convenient tongue at the back for the central pole and when the piston gets to the top (shutter open) and touches it the flash goes ... BANG.
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Scott
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« Reply #7 on: November 19, 2010, 09:13:46 AM » |
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Okay, went to dePot for toilet-fixin' supplies this morning. Found some of the work floods used in the above link - 500 watt halogens. $5.88 a piece. That works. Got two. Need to source some foam core and fabric, then figure out a stand setup for them (cruising eBay now)...
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radiophoto
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« Reply #8 on: November 19, 2010, 09:30:59 AM » |
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Scott, if the wire guards are removable, make sure you remove them, or you'll get a cross-hatch shadow on your subjects.  $5.88 each is a damn good deal.
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Pete (Corpus Christi, TX) Every professional should remain always in his heart an amateur. - Alfred Eisenstaedt (1898-1995) My Website
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Scott
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« Reply #9 on: November 19, 2010, 09:34:59 AM » |
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Yep, the wire guard is removable. I'm thinking I may end up buying some lower wattage tubes for them at some point - 500 watts is damned bright...
Used to have a bunch of foam core in the basement, but I can't find it anywhere. I'm thinking JoAnn's. Next week. Toilet's need fixin' today, and this is a while-the-family's-not-here project. :rolleyes:
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Glenn Thoreson
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« Reply #10 on: November 23, 2010, 12:18:24 PM » |
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Don't get anything flammable near those halogen lights. Them things is HOT! A definite fire hazzard. Don't enclose those things in anything, like soft boxes. Metal barn door shades would help direct the light. Watch the junk shops for old slide projectors. They make good spots. Very handy for lighting small objects. Those cheap stainless mixing bowls make good reflectors. Cut a hole in the center that you can fit a light socket into. You can also fire a flash into them for a more indirect light.
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Glenn from Wyoming
"I reject your reallity and substitute my own" ( Adam Savage )
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radiophoto
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« Reply #11 on: November 23, 2010, 01:33:38 PM » |
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I've got an old slide projector and tried to use it as a spot a couple of years ago. I don't think my room was dark enough at the time, to really notice any special effect, however.
Firing a flash into a shiny bowl is something worth trying, thanks, Glenn!
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Pete (Corpus Christi, TX) Every professional should remain always in his heart an amateur. - Alfred Eisenstaedt (1898-1995) My Website
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LarryD
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« Reply #12 on: November 23, 2010, 02:55:47 PM » |
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I had one of those bulbs blow onetime and it was emergency room time as some pieces penetrated my skin deep and real hot. A thick cover that is ventilated may be in the works there.
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Film photography and the Soviet Union are not dead. Just downsized.
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Scott
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« Reply #13 on: November 23, 2010, 03:05:41 PM » |
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The lights come with a sealed, heavy cover over them. And while the 500s generate a lot of heat, I'm feeling pretty good about the 200s I'm going to swap them out for. Should be manageable. Just need to get around to it now...
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